"S" is for Salt

Did you know that there’s more than 14,000 uses for salt? Besides being a flavourful condiment, salt has unlimited uses in the kitchen. It is a cleaning agent, by itself or in combination with other substances. A solution of sea salt and water will clean the bottom of your wine decanter, removing all the red wine stains and sediment.

Salt is the world's oldest known food additive. We were born with the ability to distinguish and crave salt for our survival. Salt keeps our bodies hydrated. Severe salt depletion would kill, so we’ve evolved to seek out salt when we need it. Our nerves and muscles require salt to function.

In the world of our senses, salt is considered a predominant taste sensation experienced on our tongue. We crave the saltiness of a wide variety of ingredients and foods. For this reason it must be considered when pairing wine to food. The level of saltiness in food will change the taste of the wine.

There are as many different types and kinds of salts from around the world as there are wines. Sea salt is a favourite, containing trace elements and minerals that are good for us, that is when consumed in moderation. Considering the flavor it provides, on a pinch-by-pinch basis, a quality sea salt can certainly be a reasonable, culinary investment.

Wales produces Halen Mon, a sea salt harvested from the Atlantic waters. Fleur de sel, meaning the ‘flower of salt’, comes from the island of Ré, off France's Atlantic coast. Since the seventh century, the sun and wind have evaporated the sea water, leaving fine crystals that are harvested in July and August from the surface. Fleur de sel is recognized for its delicate flavour and concentration of minerals. Fleur de sel does not bit the tip of the tongue like table salt. It is best used as a condiment where its finest qualities, such as its delicate flavour and texture, will shine. England, New Zealand, Australia and Hawaii all produce their own salts from the sea. Celtic gray sea salt was once a well-kept secret, highly regarded by food writers and chefs around the world. This salt comes from the marshes of Brittany on the coast of France. Celtic gray sea salt is more widely available and is now more reasonably priced.

Local bulk stores and gourmet food shops sell sea salt at a reasonable price. Sea salt brings out the natural flavors of ingredients and provides texture and appearance to dishes.

Sea salt complements both white and red wines. Saltiness, in general, contrasts well with the sourness or acidity in crisp, white wines, such as sauvignon blanc, aligote, gruner veltiliner, muscadet, viognier and vinho verde. Salty foods, such as smoked salmon, raw oysters, cheeses like feta or goat’s milk and even potato chips. Salty foods can work well with red wines, as well. The saltiness in foods works with the bitterness from the tannin in heavy, red wines Red wines with lots of tannin, such as cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, barberesco, barolo and pinotage naturally complement salty cheeses like parmesan and blue cheese.

Here’s a tip … if you purchase a red wine with too much bitterness, sprinkle more salt on the accompanying dish. The saltiness will soften the taste of the bitterness in the wine.

"R" is for Rice Papers

Vegetarian Spring Rolls


A few years ago I volunteered to make all of the appetizers from my girlfriend’s wedding. After creating all the tasty bites, I had this feeling, a familiar one, that I just had not made enough food. When alcohol is being served at events like weddings, it’s important that guests have enough food so they don’t get too silly too quickly.

After rummaging through my cupboards, I came up with a package of rice papers and a few cans of tuna. In the refrigerator I found wasabi paste and mayonnaise. I had fresh greens on hand.

I made a stack of Tuna Spring Rolls with Fresh Herbs and Wasabi Mayonnaise. (Recipe below)

Interesting, my quick and easy spring rolls made with rice paper were the first nuggets to be demolished by hungry guests.

I decided to include this recipe in my most recent cookbook entitled Orgasmic Appetizers and Matching Wines – Tiny Bites with the MOAN Factor.

I love rice papers. They are so inexpensive and easy to work with. Because they don’t possess any real flavour, the filling is the most important element to consider when pairing with wine.

For a quick meal, I make vegetarian spring rolls with fresh avocado, tomato, lettuce, cucumber, and fresh herbs, like basil. Forgo the dressing. Toss the vegetables in fresh lemon or limejuice, and pair these simple treats with Sauvignon Blanc. The lemon flavours harmonizes with the wine. (See photo above).

This thin, almost translucent paper can be purchased in various sizes, from small to large, round and square. To use the rice paper, just fill a large bowl with warm water. Slip the paper into the bowl and let it soak until the paper becomes soft and pliable. Set the soft paper on the cutting board. Place your filling close to the end of the paper. Roll up the filling, tucking in the ends.

If you’re using the rice paper raw to make spring rolls or appetizers for weddings, be sure to use two papers per roll. The longer the rolls slit, the softer they become and will no doubt split. So, double up on the papers. Make your first roll, then wrap the roll in another sheet.

Rice paper treats can also be deep fried, pan fried or baked. Deep fried rolls taste great when paired with a dipping sauce. Be sure to take the taste sensations of the sauce into consideration when pairing your rolls with wine. Fill the rolls with left-overs like rice or salad and pan fry.

Limitless spring roll and wine pairings exist.

Salmon spring rolls with a coriander dipping sauce call for a well balanced, medium bodied white, such as Chardonnay (with no oak).

Chicken spring rolls with a hoison dipping sauce has sweetness and therefore needs a white wine with some sweetness, such as a semi sweet Riesling.

Banana and mango spring rolls drizzled in dark chocolate demand Icewine.

You can even pair a lovely Pinot Noir with pork spring rolls.

Here’s the recipe for the tuna spring rolls:

Tuna Spring Rolls with Fresh Herbs & Wasabi Mayonnaise
Serves 4 to 6

2 6 ounce cans tuna (in water)
½ cup mayonnaise (try fat free)
1 tbsp wasabi paste
2 tbsp each of finely chopped fresh mint, cilantro and basil
sea salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
6 rice paper rounds (6-inches in diameter)
Mixed grees (as needed)
Vegetable oil (as needed)

Combine the tuna, mayonnaise, wasabi and fresh herbs in a bowl. Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Pour hot tap water into another bowl. Place 1 rice paper round in the water and let it soak for 15 seconds, until it’s soft. Pull the round from the water, letting the excess water drip off. Be careful not to split the rice paper.

Place the round on a work surface. Place 1 tbsp on tuna mixture on each round. Add a small handful of mixed greens to the runa. Fold the round over the ingredients, then roll the rice paper wrapper into a jellyroll (folding over the sides and ends to ensure the filling stays in.) Repeat the process if you’re double-wrapping. Coat your serving dish with a fine layer of vegetable oil to keep the rolls from sticking to it. Place a damp cloth over the rolls and refrigerate them until they’re ready to serve, but no more than 2 hours.

Wine Suggestion: Choose a semi-sweet white wine, such as Riesling. The wine’s sweetness harmonizes with the sweetness in mayonnaise. The wine’s sweetness also nicely offsets the heat from wasabi.

"Q" is for Quiche and Sparkling Wine

Crustless Bacon and Tomato Quiche

Recipe Below

Wine has a few challenges, such as pickles. Traditionally, eggs are also considered a difficult ingredient to pair to wine. Eggs are alkaline in nature, which is believed to clash with the wine’s acidity. While this may be true, the Burgundians cook eggs in red wine. Some folks have no problem partnering an aged cheddar soufflé with red Bordeaux.

As far as this wino’s concerned, quiche works with wine. On first consideration, you may believe we should marry the most predominant flavours of a quiche with specific wines. So, for example, a quiche consisting of aged cheddar might work with a big, red wine, such as Bordeaux. While this combination no doubt works, who in their right mind, would spend hard earned money on a fine Bordeaux only to pair it with a simple egg dish? Not moi! If I served a red Bordeaux, my guests would also be chewing on a juicy mouthful of Filet Mignon! So, while this combination may work theoretically, it certainly lacks in common sense.

Most well made quiche is best to be harmonious in all its ingredients. This means that the cheese, meat and vegetables can be flavourful, yet not overpowering to the delicate nature of eggs.

While quiche -- made with heavy cream – works wonderfully with a creamy textured Chardonnay, I prefer a lighter styled, all-purpose white wine. Sparkling wine! Bubblies are multi-purposed and ideal for every occasion -- whether you’re serving quiche for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner or as an appetizer.

Sparkling wine has a good backbone of acidity that contrasts nicely with the saltiness in all cheeses, while cleaning the palate and not overpowering the delicate taste of eggs. It’s also festive, transforming an average brunch into an afternoon celebration.

For some, the topic of sparkling wine can be a bit challenging. After all, sparkling wine is made in various countries, styles, sweetness levels and quality standards.

Champagne is the most famous of sparkling wines. It is also the most northerly wine region in France. So, Champagne is the name of both the French province and the name of its sparkling wine. The grapes grown and vinified to produce this wine are Pinot Noir (providing backbone and structure), Pinot Meunier (contributing freshness and aroma), and/or Chardonnay (offering Champagne’s finesse and elegance).

There are generally a few types of Champagne. Grande Marque is considered a top Champagne from a particular company, such as La Grande Dame from Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin. Grand Cru is made from vineyards rated at 100% in quality. Premier Cru is Champagne made from grapes from villages rated at 90 to 99%. Blanc de Noir is a white Champagne made from the black grapes, Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. Blanc de Blanc is a white Champagne made mostly from Chardonnay grapes. Rose has a tiny amount of red wine blended into its cuvee (blend).

Champagne and sparkling wines from around the world are made in various ways. Champagne and quality sparkling wines, such as some produced in Ontario, are made in a time consuming, traditional and most expensive method called “methode champenoise.” (You’ll see this term on the label if the bubbly was produced in this way.) The less expensive ways of making sparkling wine are the transfer method and the charmat method. These terms are not generally offered on the front label.

When purchasing sparkling wine, be aware of the level of dosage on the label. This represents the wine’s sweetness. Brut is the driest sparkling wine and the best match for quiche, at about one percent. Contrary to its name, extra dry is not quite as dry as Brut and offers more smoothness on the palate. It is about one to three percent. Sec has a hint of sweetness, from three to five percent. Demi-sec is semi-sweet, from five to eight percent. Doux is sweet, from eight to 15%.

Before serving Champagne or sparkling wine, be sure to chill it well, at least an hour in the refrigerator. When opening Champagne and sparkling wine, always keep a napkin over the cork and your hand on top of the napkin and over the cork as you turn. Turn the bottle away from your guests. (When you open the bottle, you have in your hands, about 165 pounds per square inch of pressure.) This is enough pressure to dent a wall or badly hurt someone. The long, flute glass is the best for sparkling wine as its small mouth opening helps to retain the bubbles for a longer time.

Sometimes I enjoy a white with quiche, but most often I choose sparkling wine. Just be sure that the wine or bubbly does not over power the subtle and delicate nature of this dish.

Crustless Bacon and Tomato Quiche
Serves 4
1 cup shredded cheddar
1/2 cup chopped spring onions
1 medium tomato, thinly sliced
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
6 thin strips cooked peameal bacon
salt and pepper to taste
4 eggs
2/3 cup flour
1/3 cup melted butter
1 tbsp baking powder
dash cayenne
1 2/3 cups milk

Preheat oven to 400 F. Spray a 9-inch pie plate with non-stick cooking spray. Layer cheddar, then onions, then tomato slices in the pie plate. Drizzle with lemon juice. Lay peameal bacon strips over tomato slices. Salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

In a food processor or blender, blend eggs, flour, butter, baking powder, cayenne. Slowly add milk, blending until ingredients are well incorporated. Pour mixture over bacon. Bake 30 minutes or until center of quiche springs back and is golden. Do not overbake. Let stand for 7 to 10 minutes before serving.

"P" is for Pizza and Matching Wines

White Bean Whole Wheat Pizza with Spinach and Chevre Recipe Below

I love barbecues, and I crave pizza. So, I like to combine this cooking method and comfort food into one course. Barbecued pizza can be downright healthy, can aid you in keeping the kitchen cool on hot and humid evenings and can make for easy clean up.

The secret to a heart-smart barbecued pizza is to use a whole-wheat thin crust, fresh and local produce and whey-based cheeses. I use whole-wheat tortilla shells for my crusts.

Have you ever heard the term “curds and whey”? During the cheese making process an enzyme is added to the heated milk, starting the curdling process. The fat-soluble parts of the milk begin to clump together, floating in its watery whey. The whey is drained off the curds. The curds are made into a variety of fatty products, while the whey is used to produce fresh cheeses with generally lower fat, more moisture, and less sodium. Examples are whey cheeses are feta, Chevre, farmer’s cheese, and Boursin, to name a few.

Fresh cheeses can add loads of flavour to a barbecued pizza. How about an oregano pesto whole-wheat pizza with artichoke hearts, black olives, and Chevre? Or a basil pesto whole-wheat pizza with wild mushrooms, sun dried tomatoes, topped with Boursin? A favourite of mine is White bean and garlic whole-wheat pizza with fresh tomatoes, onions, green olives, spinach, and Chevre. The list of healthy and harmonious combinations is endless.

There are three secrets to making a fabulous barbecued pizza. Be sure to coat the perforated pizza tray with heart smart margarine. This makes the bottom of the crust golden and crunchy and sturdy enough to hold a variety of heavier ingredients. Secondly, use low or indirect heat on the grill. And lastly, refrain from walking away from the barbecuing pizza! You must watch it carefully to keep the crust from burning.

Wine is certainly healthy, as well. All wine when consumed in moderation with food helps to reduce stress. Red wine is high in antioxidants.

The fabulous thing about pairing wine to pizza is that everything goes! Pizza is a casual dish, and therefore works well with a casual wine. In other words, it would be quite appropriate to serve an easy-drinking white or red in the $10 to $15.00 range. Appropriateness is really key. It would be silly to serve a $50 to $100 rare vintage with something as simple as barbecued pizza, unless your intent is that the wine takes center stage. But even so, pizza would not do justice to a wine of this caliber.

The simplest approach is to stick to pairing wine to the cheese topping. After all, it is often the most highly flavourful ingredient on the pizza, save for anchovies.

Pizza topped with goat, feta or Boursin is tangy and so complements a tangy and crisp, dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc.

Pizzas highlighting fresh fruit can also be healthy and flavourful. Chunks of fresh pineapple contrasts nicely with goat cheese on Hawaiian pizza. The sweetness of pineapple calls for a white wine with a hint of sweetness, such as semi sweet Riesling or Gewürztraminer or a rose with a hint of sweetness to match. Dry whites or reds would taste too tart alongside this pizza style.

Mexican pizza with a salsa base is often spicy and so also complements semi sweet whites and roses.

Traditional pizza with a roasted tomato base and partly skimmed mozzarella topping goes nicely with a full-bodied, barrel fermented Chardonnay. The wine’s primary building block of fattiness (big mouth feel and oily texture) works nicely with this creamy textured cheese, while it’s toasty notes complement the roasted tomato. The wine’s good acidity also balances the acidity in the tomatoes.

You can still create a healthy barbecued pizza using blue cheese, one that partners well with red wine. Use low fat blue cheese salad dressing as the base ingredient for your pizza. Add toppings, such as chicken, roasted garlic, and rosemary. Pizza featuring blue cheese requires a red wine with enough flavour to match. A medium-bodied red, such as Merlot partners well. Merlot has enough body and flavour to stand up to the soft flavour of the blue cheese dressing, but is not so full-bodied that it dominates the other flavours in this pizza.

Goat cheese also works well with the earthy character of quality Pinot Noir. Add to this a topping combination of rosemary, spinach and garlic, and you’ll have a barbecued pizza and wine marriage made in heaven.

What about pizza heavy in chorizo sausage, pepperoni, steak and Cheddar? In this case, pull out your cabs and plan to walk an extra mile the next day. Meat and cheese is both heavy and so requires a big red wine for balance. Try Cabernet Sauvignon.

Pizza can be so casual that almost any wine will do. And as I’ve always claimed, the only rule you need to follow is this …make sure you get the glass to your lips!

White Bean Whole-Wheat Pizza with Spinach and Chevre (picture)
Serves four

4 whole-wheat tortilla shells
1 cup cannelloni white beans, rinsed
3 clove garlic, minced
¼ cup heart smart oil of choice
Sea salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 plum tomatoes, thinly sliced
1/4 small onion, thinly sliced
4 cups baby spinach, steamed
2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
4 to 6 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
8 large stuffed green olives sliced

In a food processor or blender add beans, garlic, oil, salt and pepper.
Pulse until coarsely chopped. Season with sea salt and pepper. Butter bottom of tortilla shell and set on perforated pizza pan. Spread the tortilla shell with bean puree. Top with tomatoes, onion, and spinach. Sprinkle with rosemary and dot with goat cheese. Set pizza (in tray) on prepared grill (low heat or indirect heat). Close top and grill, watching carefully, for 4 to 5 minutes. Remove pizza with bottom is golden and cheese is melted. Repeat using remainder of ingredients for second tortilla pizza.

Wine Suggestion: Sauvignon Blanc
The saltiness of olives, bitterness of white beans and garlic and tanginess of fresh tomatoes and Chevre call for a white wine with crisp acidity. Sauvignon Blanc is ideal.