"F" is for Fruit Wines, How to Enjoy Them and the Foods They Work With

Even though I consider myself an advocate of classic table wines, I sometimes crave cold ale or a glass of chilled, refreshing fruit wine on a hot, summer day. In Ontario we have fruit wines made from locally grown fruits, such as apples, rhubarb, cherries, strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. These wines are produced in a variety of styles, such as dry, sparkling, off dry, sweet and very sweet.

Fruit wines can be enjoyed with a variety of dishes, especially entrees containing fresh fruit as an ingredient, such as berry sauces or compotes. These wines are enjoyed in much the same way as classic table wines, that is by using your senses in smelling and tasting them.

The first step to enjoying fruit wine is to look at its colour and clarity. The wine should be bright. Swirl the glass to add air, which helps to carry the aromas to the surface of the glass and therefore up to your nose. Our nose has the ability to distinguish over 10,000 different smells whereas our mouth only has four taste sensations. So, most of the enjoyment of wine can be found in the art of swirling and smelling. Unlike table wines that can magically take on an endless array of aromas, fruit wines should smell like the fruit from which they are made. For example, a good Chardonnay may smell like apples to one person; pears, to another. Another person may insist this same wine smells and tastes of tropical fruit, such as melons. A quality fruit wine made from raspberries should smell like … well, raspberries. A blended fruit wine produced from apples and rhubarb should then smell like this same combination of fruit. By the same token, if a raspberry wine does not smell like the fruit of origin, then it is not, necessarily, considered a winner.

The same goes for tasting fruit wine. The wine should taste like the fruit from which it is made. Like classic table wines, fruit wines have building blocks, such as acidity, sweetness, bitterness and sometimes viscosity (weight of mouthfeel) often described as fattiness.

Many fruit wineries produce wines in four sweetness levels, such as dry, off dry, semi sweet and sweet. I personally believe all fruit wines should possess some sweetness to balance their natural acidity. I’m not fond of fruit wines that are vinified dry. Fruit wines are not supposed to compete with dry table wines produced from grapes. In fact, I think vinifying fruit wines to dry gives this genre a bad reputation. Fruit wines will never taste like table wines made from grapes or vice versa. And that’s a good thing. Fruit wines don’t have to compete with table wines, no more than action flicks need to compete with romance movies. There’s a place in our culinary world for both.

Wines fermented from fruits complement a wide array of appetizers, salads, soups, entrees and desserts. Barbecued ravioli with a dollop of raspberry and wasabi mayonnaise is a tasty appetizer to pair with chilled raspberry wine. A salad of fresh greens drizzled in a strawberry vinaigrette works nicely when partnered to strawberry wine. And there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer day than a bowl of raspberry gazpacho decorated with fresh mint. Apple cranberry wine is a great match for pork chops with applesauce or pork ribs glazed with brown sugar and dried apples. East Indian and Thai curries taste outstanding when highlighted by a glass of fruit wine possessing balanced sweetness. Just make sure the wine is sweeter than the sweetness in your dish.

Like a chilled ounce of icewine, a sweet fruit wine can stand on its own. It is dessert!

Ontario is home to many awesome fruit wineries.

Kawartha Country Wines, located at 2275 County Road 36 in Buckhorn, is a lovely place to visit for the ambiance, gourmet fare and delicious wines. Here you can sample wines and pick up interesting and unique foods and food and wine related items in their gourmet shop. Owners John Rufa and Trish Dougherty recently won silver medals in the All Canadian Wine Championships for their 2008 Rhubarb, $13.80, and their 2007 Black Current, $14.80. My favourite is their Rasperry Port. It is outstanding. Kawartha Country Wines is hosting a strawberry festival at the winery on June 27, 2009. For more information call

Many other wineries from across the country took home medals in the All Canadian Wine Championships, as well. Double gold medals went to the following:

Soft Fruit Dry
Scotch Block Winery, ON 2008 Regal Black Currant $12.95
Soft Fruit Off-Dry
Muskoka Lakes Winery, ON 2007 Cranberry Blueberry $16.75
Soft Fruit Dessert
Scotch Block Winery, ON 2008 Black Currant Truffle $14.95
Tree Fruit Dry
Verge Belliveau Orchard, NB 2007 Poire $12.99
Tree Fruit Off-Dry
Sunnybrook Farm Estate Winery, ON N/V Golden Plum $19.75
Tree Fruit Dessert
La Face Cachee de la Pomme, PQ 2007 Frimas Ice Cider $39.87
(Trophy, Best Fruit Wine)
**Sponsored by Ontario Viniculture Association
Fruit Fortifieds
Les Vergers de la Colline, PQ 2006 L'Ensorceleuse $23.70
Fruit Sparkling *NEW Category
Cidrerie du Minot, PQ N/V Cremant de Glace $23.90
Meades
Applewood Farm Winery, ON 2008 Mac Meade $12.45
Grape Fortifieds & Other Desserts
L'Acadie Vineyards, NS 2008 Soleil $29.38

"E" is for Etiquette -- Wine Etiquette, that is...

The shape of a wine glass alters the aromas and flavours of a wine. Make sure the rim is more narrow than the bowl. The Riedel glass on the left is well shaped and will enhance the character of the wine. The glass on the right is inferior.

If you’re planning on entertaining clients, employees, family or friends this summer in a restaurant setting, it’s always handy to brush up on your etiquette, especially if you’re ordering wine.

I think it’s important to choose a restaurant that creates an experience rather than serves a meal, one with table cloths, linen napkins and well shaped wine glasses.

Nothing is more infuriating to me than paying top dollar to discover that my dinner plate is set directly on a naked table beside a wine glass purchased from the Dollar Store and an accompanying paper napkin that threatens to give me paper cut lips.

If you’re a wino like me, you may want to choose a restaurant with a particular theme, such as a steak house, one that also possesses a decent wine cellar and wine list to accompany its distinct menu.

I like to make sure that I can order a fabulous bottle of wine, one that all my guests can enjoy with their similar entrees. Chiado Restaurant in Toronto at 864 College Street Toronto, ON M6H 1A3, is case in point. This authentic Portuguese gem does not serve meals, but rather creates heightened culinary experiences. Their extensive fish selection is well suited to the Portugese only wine list. This restaurant gets 10 on the Moan Factor Scale!

To make a great impression, consider phoning the sommelier or restaurateur a head of time to make a reservation for a specific time. And if applicable, request a particular table within the restaurant, one with the best view. Also request a bottle of sparkling wine or Champagne be set on the table immediately upon your arrival.

After sitting down, place the napkin on your lap. As the host you are responsible for ordering the wine. Make sure the waitperson has handed you both the menu and wine list. Since you’ve already ordered Champagne for your guests, there’s no need to suggest aperitifs. If you have not requested a bubbly, ask your guests if they would enjoy an aperitif.

Remember, you want your guests to consume enough alcohol to enjoy themselves and to pair with their cuisine, but you must also ensure they are sober upon leaving the restaurant and getting into their vehicles.

Listen intently when your guests are ordering their main entrée. If you feel there are far too many cuisines being ordered, such as in weight and complexity of flavours, then suggest everyone enjoy individual glasses of wine. An entrée highlighting East Indian or Thai flavours offers a completely different taste profile than a steak stuffed with brie and wrapped in bacon. Both entrees demand specific styles of wines. Hot and spicy dishes require a wine with tropical flavours and sweetness, yet steak with cheese and bacon demands a big, fabulous red with good structure.

You will be the one expected to test the wine. The waitperson or sommelier will show you the label. Read the label. Be sure to read the name of the winery, the style (Bordeaux) and/or grape variety (Cabernet Sauvignon) and most definitely the vintage date. The same wine can vary in quality and price from year to year.

The sommelier or waitperson will open the wine in front of you. After opening the bottle, the server will then put the cork in front of you. You may have noticed some people smelling the cork. You do not need to do this. Just feel it instead. The level of moisture in the cork may be an indication of how the wine has been stored. If the cork is dried out, this may be a sign that the bottle has been stored upright, rather on its side, thereby allowing air inside the bottle and causing the wine to oxidize – aging before its time. Young wines, however, may have dry corks because they have just been bottled. If the cork is gummy, this may be a good indication that the wine has oxidized. Cork taint accounts for less than 3 percent of all wines. So, your chance of getting one is slim.

The server will then pour an ounce of wine into your glass. Your job is to swirl the wine, smell it and taste it. If you’re unsure as to what to smell, just concern yourself with the taste. If the wine tastes pleasant, nod and let the server then fill your guests’ glasses first; yours last. If the wine’s taste reminds you of cooked fruit – the kind you put into a pie – then the wine may very well be oxidized. If the cork is gummy and the wine taste liked cooked fruit, ask for another bottle of wine.

Don’t be shy to send it back and order a new bottle of wine. The restaurateur will place the cork back into the bottle and return it to its source for a replacement. (Remember that you cannot drink an entire glass before requesting the wine be removed from the table.)

If you agree with the wine, nod to the sommelier. He/she will then pour the wine, beginning with your guests sittingto your right. You will be serves last.

In a busy and crowded restaurant it may take a while for the wait person to return to top up the wine glasses. Take it upon yourself to fulfill this task. Pour wine into all your guests’ glasses before your own. Pour the same amount into each glass despite how slowly or quickly your guests are sipping.

A new bottle of wine deserves clean wine glasses. You are paying a premium price for this beverage and so deserve to have clean glasses for each product.

At the end of the meal offer dessert to your guests with tea or coffee. The additional fat will absorb alcohol. Sit and relax for a while before paying the bill. Your guests will feel obligated to stay seated. Additional alcohol-free time is the only remedy to reduce the alcohol levels in the blood.

"D" is For Dry Rubs

Rubbed Barbecued Baby Back Pork Ribs Recipe Below.

I love dry rubs. Like sauces, dry rubs on grilled vegetables and protein are perfect wine partners.
When barbecuing many people like to use a rub and then finish their protein with some sort of barbecue sauce.

I tend to like dry rubs all on their own. A difference exists between a 'seasoning' agent and a 'dry rub'. A seasoning agent is used sparingly and its purpose is to add flavour. The dry rub's primary purpose is to form a tasty crust on food, to act as a barrier, allowing the protein or ingredient to retain its moisture during frying, deep frying, roasting or barbecuing - all the while adding lots of flavour.

Be careful, however, as the seasonings within a dry rub alter in flavour when cooked. So, do not judge the rub by its raw flavours alone. Its wine pairing compatibility is based on its tastes, flavours and texture “once cooked.”

Most dry rubs are made from a base ingredient that tastes either salty or sweet. Saltiness and sweetness are both building blocks in food that must be considered when hunting for the ideal wine partner.

Saltiness works well with the acidity in wine. It is experienced on the palate as a sour or zesty taste. Just as salt and vinegar potato chips harmonize together, so too does salty dry rubs and zesty wines. Salty dry rubs are complemented by wine partners, such as Sauvignon Blanc, dry Riesling, dry Vidal, Pinot Gris, and Vinho Verde. Salt tends to draw out moisture, so I would refrain from using a salt-based dry rub on fish.

Sweetness in savoury dishes cannot be ignored when you’re considering a compatible wine partner. You can pair your sweet-based dry rubs with wines offering sweetness, such as off-dry whites or off dry roses. Examples include semi sweet Riesling, semi sweet Gewurztraminer, semi sweet Vidal and sparkling wines with sweetness. Make sure the bubbly’s label says sec or demi-sec. Sweet dry rubs work nicely with fish, chicken, pork and beef.

Once you have determined the base ingredient or building block of your dry rub, and matched this with a primary building block in a wine – meaning you have chosen a particular wine style, you can then experiment and consider flavours. What wine flavours work with the flavouring agents of dry rubs?

A Texas style dry rub with a salt base, chili and garlic powders, dry mustard and pepper, partners with a white wine with good acidity to offset the salt and spice. Dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnays with no oak fermentation or aging are great matches.

Salt-based dry rubs with dried herbs, such as basil, thyme, marjoram and/or parsley work nicely with white wine that celebrate herbal notes, such as Sauvignon Blanc. This particular wine possesses grassy character on the nose and palate. This herbaceous character therefore harmonizes with the dried herbs in the rub.


Asian Barbecue Chicken Recipe Below

Sugar-based dry rubs with plenty of spiciness, such as cayenne or chilies, works with semi sweet white wines. The hotter the spice, the more sweetness is required in the wine. Go with semi sweet Riesling, semi sweet Gewurztraminer, semi sweet Vidal, sparkling wines with sweetness (sec or demi-sec) or a semi sweet rose.

Some dry rub recipes are based on seeds and nuts. Seeds and nuts have plenty of oil, and so pair well with a white wine that has fattiness as its primary building block -- barrel fermented and aged Chardonnay.

Cedar Planked Pine Nut Coated Tilapia Recipe Blow

A dry rub with a coffee and/or cocoa base is bitter, therefore requiring a wine with good tannin (bitterness), such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Meritage, etc. A bitter dry rub marries well with the heavier texture of beef and game meats and so naturally works with a big, full-bodied red wine, anyway.


Grilled Coffee Rubbed T-Bones Recipe Below

Here are a few dry rub recipes with matching wines from a new Canadian brand called "Simply" available in Wine Rack Stores throughout Ontario.

www.winerack.com

To save money, at a building supply store purchase one long cedar board and have it cut into 12-inch long planks. This is more inexpensive than purchasing pre-cut cedar planks.

Most supermarkets now have bulk sections carrying spices, dried herbs and seasonings. Bulk food stores all carry these items, which you can buy in small amounts and inexpensively.

Rubbed Barbecued Baby Back Pork Ribs
Serves Four to Six

2 tsp chile powder
2 tsp cumin powder
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp turbinado sugar
2 tbsp garlic powder
2 tbsp coarse sea salt

Place all ingredients in a coffee grinder and grind to a powder. Transfer to a jar and seal tight. Store in a cool dark place.

2 racks baby back pork ribs, ask butcher to remove membrane
Olive oil as needed

Set ribs on a cookie sheet. Coat ribs in olive oil. Sprinkle a thick coat of dry rub over ribs. Let soak in about a half hour. Spray barbecue grill with non-stick cooking spray. Heat barbecue. Turn off one side of barbecue. Set other side of heat at medium low. Set ribs on the side of grill with no heat. Close lid and barbecue ribs (by indirect heat) for one hour. Watch closely to make sure the ribs do not catch on fire -- you can tell by the amount of smoke coming from the grill. Keep a spray bottle filled with water handy to put out flames if necessary.

Side Dish: Garlic, mashed potatoes

Wine Suggestion: Simply Bold + Rich, $11.95 (Available at Wine Rack shops in Ontario) This wine offers aromas and flavours of blackberries, leather and spice. It possesses good structure, evidence of the decent tannins. The tannin in this red, bringing harmony to the palate, nicely offsets the saltiness of the dry rub.
Or choose a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon

Asian Barbecue Chicken
Serves 4

Turbinado sugar, found in bulk food stores and many local supermarkets, is not as sweet as brown sugar, making it an ideal base ingredient for dry rubs to be paired with red wine.

1 (5 lb) chicken
2 tbsp Simply Five Spice rub (recipe below)
2 tbsp olive oil

To butterfly the chicken, place breast down on a flat surface. Using
poultry sheers, cut along each side of the backbone. Remove and discard it. Flip bird over and press firmly on the center of the breastbone to break it. Put your hand between the flesh and skin and loosen the skin around the breasts, legs and wings, breaking the fat membranes inside.

In a small bowl mix together 2 tablespoons of five spice rub with 2 tablespoons of oil to make a thick paste. Massage 1 tablespoon of paste between the flesh and the skin, being sure legs, thighs and wings are covered with paste. Try not to split the skin. If you do, secure the pieces of skin together over the breasts, using a toothpick. Gently massage remaining paste over the outside of the whole chicken.

Spray grill with non-stick cooking spray. Start barbecue to preheat. Turn off one side of the grill. Place the flattened chicken on the side of the grill without heat. Close lid and grill chicken (by indirect heat) until juices run clear and the thermometer in thigh registers 175 to 180 F (79 to 82 C), about 40. If the skin starts to blacken, cover with foil. Remove from the grill and let bird rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Five Spice Rub Recipe
¼ cup coarse sea salt
¼ cup turbinado sugar
2 tbsp plus 1 tsp Chinese Five Spice
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper

Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend until well mixed. Transfer to a jar and seal tight. Store in a cool, dark place.

Side Dish: grilled sweet potato

Wine Suggestion: Simply Big + Luscious, $11.95 (Available at Wine Rack Shops in Ontario) The aromas and flavours of this wine can be described as green apple and pink grapefruit. But the wine has creaminess and pleasant zest that nicely offsets the saltiness in this rub.

Or choose a California Chardonnay (barrel fermented and/or aged)

Cedar Planked Pine Nut Coated Tilapia
Serves 4

4 cedar planks (12 X 6 inches each)
½ cup milk
4 large tilapia filets

Pine Nut Dry Rub
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts*
2 tbsp season salt
2 tsp dried lemon rind
2 tsp freshly grated black pepper
2 tsp dill seed

1/2 cup flour
½ cup butter, melted
8 slices of prosciutto
4 limes

*To toast pine nuts place them in a dry fry pan over low heat and shake until golden. Watch closely so they do not burn.

Place cedar planks in the kitchen sink with enough water to cover. Use a vase filled with some water to weigh down the planks to keep them from surfacing. Soak the planks for 1 to 4 hours.

Place tilapia filets with milk in a bowl. Make sure they are all coated in milk. Cover and refrigerate until needed. The milk takes the fishy taste out of fish.

Place all rub ingredients except flour in a coffee grinder. Grind until you have created a crumble. Place crumble in a bowl and add flour. Mix until well blended.

Place melted butter in a large bowl. Place dry rub crumble in another large bowl.

Remove fish from milk. Pat dry on paper towel. Coat fish in butter and then dredge in dry rub mixture until well coated. Repeat for other 3 filets.

Place 2 prosciutto slices side by side on cedar plank. Place fish on prosciutto slices. Repeat for remaining 3 filets.

Prepare barbecue on low heat. Transfer planks with fish to barbecue grill. Close lid and grill fish for about 15 minutes until flaky and white inside. Watch closely. Lift cover if you see too much smoke. The cedar may be catching fire. Keep a water spray bottle handy in case you need to put out flames on cedar. When done, transfer cedar planks to cookie sheet. Transfer tilapia on cedar planks to serving platter or to individual platters.

Side Dish: Grilled asparagus

Wine Suggestion: Simply Crisp + Lively, $11.95 (Available at Wine Rack Stores in Ontario) Simply Crisp and Lively has wonderful tangy and bitter tones that complement the zest of lemon and offsets the saltiness of the dry rub and prosciutto.
Or choose a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

Grill Coffee Rubbed T-Bones
Serves Four

2 tbsp instant coffee
2 tbsp turbinado sugar
2 tbsp sea salt
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp allspice

4 steaks (favourite cut)

Let steaks warm to room temperature. Trim off excess fat. Coat steaks in oil. Season steaks with rub. Let sit for a half hour. Spray grill with non-stick cooking spray. Heat up barbecue. Place each steak on the grill for one minute. Turn and grill steaks on the second side for another minute. Rotate the steaks by 45 degrees and continue grilling. By turning the steaks you will get a nice diamond pattern on the steaks. To check for doneness, press steak with your finger.
A rare steak will feel soft. A medium steak will be firm but yielding. A well-done steak will be firm. Grill to desired doneness. Let the steaks rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Side Dish: Garlic mashed potatoes

Wine Suggestion: Simply Smooth + Fruity, $11.95 (Available at Wine Rack Shops in Ontario) The wine’s aromas of cranberries and apples with hints of cinnamon complements similar flavours in this rub. The pleasant bitterness from the coffee and saltiness of the rub also works with the soft tannin in this red.

Or choose an Australian Shiraz

"C" is for Casseroles

Fried onions, bread and panko crumbs, chopped toasted nuts, crushed potato chips, crumpled bacon and shredded or grated cheese all serve as flavourful and textured toppings for your next casserole entree.

The casserole is one of North America’s favourite styles of cookery and is certainly an easy-to-prepare comfort food.

Being a comfort food, casseroles do not require expensive vintages as partners -- unless they contain expensive ingredients, such as venison or lobster. An easy drinking white or red wine under $15.00 will perform nicely.

First, let’s look at the word “casserole.” It is a French term that defines the dish used for baking. (This word was first printed in English in 1708.) In the 50’s, when lightweight metal and glass bake-ware were introduced, casserole cookery became popular in North America.

Today, the word casserole refers to both the “baking dish” and the “food inside the baking dish.” The dish itself is a deep, round, ovenproof container with handles and a tightly-fitting lid, made of glass, metal, ceramic or any heatproof material. You can serve a casserole for breakfast, as a side dish, or as a main entree.

Ingredients can include cooked meats, poultry, fish, eggs, and vegetables, usually "bound" together with some kind of sauce or soup. The dish is often topped with one of a variety of toppings, as suggested above. Garnishes include tomato wedges, shredded lettuce, pimiento-stuffed olives, fresh parsley or other herbs, sliced hard-boiled eggs, or sliced green onions.

The nifty thing about the casserole is that it can be frozen in its own dish, cooked or uncooked. (However, consume within two months.) If you’re freezing a cooked casserole, let cool to room temperature before freezing. Be sure to line the baking dish with aluminum foil, leaving enough overhanging foil to cover the top for freezing. Seal the casserole in a heavy-duty freezer bag. And don’t forget to label and date the bag. Before heating up, thaw the casserole in the refrigerator overnight and heat at 350 F until hot.

Now for the casserole's best wine partners ...

You increase your chances of creating a harmonious partnership if you pair the wine with the casserole according to their similar and predominant taste sensations -- which I call “building blocks.”`
Tangy tasting casseroles using a base ingredient like yogurt or sour cream or salty ones with smoked salmon or capers work well with crisp, dry white wines. I love a Middle Eastern chicken casserole with garlic, lemon and yogurt called Fete. It tastes lovely with Sauvignon Blanc. Smoked salmon and dill casserole or crab and artichoke casserole works with Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, dry Riesling, Vinho Verde, or Verdicchio.

Casseroles with sweetness (containing yams or fresh fruit) or hot and spiciness demand off-dry (semi-sweet) whites like Gewurztraminer or Riesling offering a hint of sweetness. (Make sure that the wine is sweeter than the yams or fruit in the casserole. Otherwise, the interaction of food with the wine will make the wine taste too tart.) Squash casserole and an off dry Riesling taste great together. Cajun shrimp casserole works well with an off dry Gewurztraminer. An off dry rose with a hint of sweetness harmonizes with either corn and green chili tamale or layered enchilada casserole.

Rich seafood casseroles need a big, fat wine match like a luscious barrel-fermented and/or aged Chardonnay or barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, referred to as “Fume Blanc.” Scallop and potato or lobster and potato casserole highlighted with lemon garlic butter is divine when served with a big fat white.

Choose a light, fruity red, such as Pinot Noir for fresh, wild salmon or tuna-based casseroles.

Casseroles containing highly textured red meats or bitter tasting ingredients, such as spinach and nuts, complement a red wine with some pleasant bitterness, such as a medium to full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon or Meritage, both offering sufficient bitterness from the present tannins. Casseroles that work with big reds include lamb and pasta and potato with gouda and bacon.

So, the next time you think casserole, think wine!